Legendary Klewer Market

backpacker indonesia : Surakarta or Solo is a single central culture in Central Java. Kraton, Batik, and Pasar Klewer are three things that become the identity of this old city.

Batik tradition that characterized the city of Solo, to this day still passed on from generation to generation. No wonder fame as one of the city of Solo batik producers already well known to the world.

One of the places at the same time Solo batik making center of the largest sales in Solo batik can be found in Pasar Klewer.

Since the 70s Klewer market became the target of the agents from various cities in the country and even neighboring countries to obtain high-quality batik at cheap prices.

At first batik craftsmen and entrepreneurs, mostly from the region and Kauman Laweyan known as kampung batik. They peddle his wares around their homes. But its sales in the long run the place evolved into a community of artisans and trade places.

The name "Klewer" itself, because once the regular merchants displaying merchandise in a dependent batik cloth-hanging or in Javanese language "diklewer-Klewer".

Finally, since the year 1971 even this place known as Pasar Klewer and to this day has never changed its name to another.

Pasar Klewer lies right at the plaza north of the city of Solo with a land area nearly 13 thousand square meters. This market holds more than 3000 traders who speculate every day from daybreak until dusk hits.

Although the concept sale is traditionally a family management, this market transactions every day on average could reach more than 15 billion rupiah.

In this market a variety of batik, ranging from batik cloth with a pattern of ancient and sacred to modern forms such as batik clothes and tablecloths and bed covers that became souvenirs can be found in the city of Solo.

But they are competitive compared to the store or supermarket prices because the buyers here are welcome to bid with the lowest price. All sales process be transparent so that the price was pegged also did not differ much among the sellers. Well ... seems to have no agreement among them, so the competition is also running in a positive way.

As a symbol of the old city of Surakarta, Pasar Klewer also be evidence of the existence of batik history in this city. Batik motifs each picture offered by the merchant to show the era of creativity and the development of batik from day to day according to trends and booming at the time. So if you're good at reading patterns, automatically you will be able to assemble a story from motives which are reflected in a cloth.

Uniqueness, the traders who sell here also is a hereditary generation. They survive because of trade batik market is their search area since the time of their first grandson. No wonder if there is one family who sold in one block.

Inevitably, batik heritage and in fact become collateral for the craftsmen and merchants living in the Pasar Klewer Batik. This is evidence of a legacy that can overshadow the lives of future generations.

Djiwo Diharjo, Expert Keris Customer Kraton

As worker keris, Djiwo Diharjo ( 71) confess, keris is honour symbol. Keris believe public mambawa luck would safety and. So doesn't surprise many key mens as of class Soeharto ( former President RI), Sultan Brunai Darusalam Bolkiah also interest to have keris made in member of this Banyusumurup, Imogiri.

For Djiwo x'self, profession as worker keris acted since adolescent age because its(the nenek-moyang is of course a worker keris. Even, according to its(the speech semenjak my Hameng era Buwono V, its(the family becomes customer Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat in the case of making keris. The existing finite also, the side of Kraton Jogja still ordering keris.

Makes keris is not lah easy. More than anything else to make keris appearance more authoritatively and has high art is not light work. Djiwo confess, for keris which is cheap with the price of Rp 450000 poisons completed 1 week. But for keris which is expensive which depth is arranged in layers [by] pure gold, butuh time around 6 month of poison completed.

“ Because keris which is auriferous in price can be reach 20 million per seed,” adds Djiwo.

To make keris has content and authoritative telihat, Djiwo confess must do good fasting of that is at the subscriber and also x'self as maker. But sometime quite a few surrendering bongkohan which is important become. So x'self is not rarely must fast x'self.

Till now a lot applies keris for a few requirement. Both for the rank business, career, [position/occupation], finite business of authority the consumer.

“ Of course unlimited common people, functionary circle even business also a lot applies keris for safety,” he said.

To make Jamas, Warangan, Sediment Glaze etc x'self intentionally chooses choice woods delivered from Temanggung, Wonosobo, ligneous Magelang of Timoho, Nangka, Kemuning etc.

Process of depends on price and wood applied. Increasingly expensive, hence wood and making time more and more with quality and height the price because its(the production process is meticulous and precautions.

“ Special of order of key man must fast in front before making,' explicitly Djiwo which descendant still of Kyai Empu Panjang Mas from this Majapahit.

Some exhibitions in and overseas have ever been done even foreign turis also a lot comes direct in its(the house. According To Mr. Djiwo, the turis buying keris of course is sold again in art their shop. Because keris for foreign tourist is thing draws and langka.*(Nur

The Cities of Batik

Yogyakarta and Solo are the centers of traditional of batiks, as the north coastal town of Pekalongan is the center of more modern batiks, using more floral and birds motifs. There are some well-known artists of batik design in Yogya and Solo, as well as some big batik manufacturers with famous trademarks.

The growing production of batik makes way to the establishment of mori (woven cotton fabrics) factories in Yogya and Central Java. The Batik research Institute was founded in Yogya.

When Batik is Worn

Batik dresses are worn for several purposes, such as ;

• Informal Dresses; It is a free choice, usually for daily casual wear.
• Formal OccasionsIn some parties, as a state banquets, receptions, etc, the invitees are requested to wear batik. Long sleeves shirts for the men and 'kain batik' (long batik to cover the lower body) for the women.
• Traditional OccasionsIt is worn to present the traditional wedding ceremonies, special ceremonies for the Royal families, etc.

In a wedding ceremony the bride and the bridegroom wear the same motif of batik Sidomukti, symbolizing a happiness and prosperous life. Using the same motif symbolizing the togetherness. The parents of the bride and the bridegroom wear batik with motif of Truntum, symbolizing the advice of the parents to the newly weds to enter the new life with full of love and confidence.

Traditional Dress

Women's traditional dress, especially in Yogya and Solo court families, consisting of :

• Jarit or Tapih or Sinjang, A 'kain panjang' (long cloth of batik) measuring around 2 m x 1 m to cover the lower body, tightened with stagen (large waist band)
• Kebaya, It is a traditional long sleeved shirt (the material used is not from batik, usually from silk and other fine materials).
• Selendang, It is used as attractive piece of clothing to compliment the traditional dress. The 2 m x 0,5 m selendang cloth hung over one shoulder.
• Kemben or Semekan, It is special for ceremonies in Karaton (palace) or Royal family ceremonies. Instead of wearing Kebaya, to cover the upper body, a kemben is worn.

Men's Traditional Dresses

• Jarit or Bebed; Men kain panjang, tightened with stagen.
• Surjan; Men traditional long sleeved shirt (only for Yogya style) and the material is not batik.
• Beskap; Instead of wearing surjan, the men wear a coat (beskap of Solo style or Atila of Yogya style), the materials is not batik.
• Blangkon; It is a headgear made from batik.
  KerisThe dagger is worn at backside of the waist, as a compliment to the dress.

Dodot

Is a very long jarit to cover the lower body. It is worn only on a very special occasion such as the king coronation by the king himself. The wearing of dodot or kampuhan is very complicated. It may take two hours to wear a dodot with the help of specialist-dressers!

BATIK ; Indonesian Traditional Textile

Batik is generally thought of as the most quintessentially Indonesian textile. Motifs of flowers, twinning plants, leaves buds, flowers, birds, butterflies, fish, insects and geometric forms are rich in symbolic association and variety; there are about three thousand recorded batik patterns.

The patterns to be dyed into the the clothe are drawn with a canting, a wooden 'pen' fitted with a reservoir for hot, liquid wax. In batik workshops, circles of women sit working at clothes draped over frames, and periodically replenish their supply of wax by dipping their canting into a central vat. Some draw directly on the the cloth from memory; others wax over faint charcoal lines.This method of drawing patterns in wax on fine machine-woven cotton was practiced as a form of meditation by the female courtiers of Central Java; traditionally, batik tulis (tulis means 'write' in Indonesian) is produced by women.In the 19th century, the application of waxed patterns with a large copper stamp orcap saved the batik industry from competition with cheap printed European cloth. The semi-industrial nature of cap work allows it to be performed by men. Batik motifs recall characters from the Hindu epics, plants, animals, sea creatures and gamalan melodies.

In Surakarta rich creams and browns are juxtaposed with tinges of yellowish gold.White, undyed cloth is left to contrast with the sombre opulence of brown and blue dyes in Yogjakarta. The palette of the north coast were influenced by lively maritime trade and the textile traditions of the Chinese and Arab mercantile communities living in port and coastal towns.

The Symbolic Meaning of Batik's Motifs

The motifs of Batik, especially with old pattern, as in other field of Javanese tradition are symbolizing something. Might be, this is one of the reasons, why people still adore batik up to present date. Some of the motifs are :

• Sido Mulyo :Sido (you should be ), mulyo (happy). Symbolizing 'you should be happy and rich man'.
• Sido Dadi :Symbolizing 'you should be a man/woman as you wish (prosperous, high ranking position, wealthy, etc)'.
• Satrio Wibowo :Symbolizing 'Man with dignity'.
• Tikel Asmorodono :Tikel (more), Asmoro (love), Dono (gift).It is meant the one who wears this batik, should be loved more and more by others.

The Process of Batik Making

Batik, in Javanese means 'To Dot'. Basically there are two kinds of batik; Batik Tulis (hand drawn) and Batik Cap (stamped). The price of batik tulis is much more expensive than batik cap.

Doting

A canting (a pen like instrument with a small reservoir of liquid wax) is applied to the cloth of batik tulis making. The tracing of the desired design on to the prepared cloth is the first stage of making followed by the technique of applying wax and dye substances. At the final stage of the process, all the wax scraped off and the cloth boiled to remove all traces of the wax. This process of repeatedly waxing and dyeing is the batik process, used until nowadays in Java and other parts of Indonesia.

So, this kind art of batik is an indigenous to the country. The wax used in batik process is a combined product of paraffin, bees-wax, plant resins called gondorukem and mata kucing.
Batik cap, which is also using the waxing process, its process of course faster and easier. But people appreciation of batik tulis is higher, it is really a work of an artist not only a craftsman. It combines the expertise, patience, deep feeling to produce the finest product, and it may take days, weeks and even months to make only a batik tulis.

Art Fan Batik Fan, More Than Simply Fan

If You paid a visit to Jl. Tirtodipuran, explains you will discover jejeran galeri-galeri selling art goods. But, tries also to step into his(its countrified. Among small gangways, you also able to find goods that is also competent to be made present, that is fan.



Located In Mangkuyudan MJ III/215, Jogja, Kipas Seni becomes center fan worker. Fan that is on the market all kinds and is faning with batik cloth cloth material. Besides fan with ordinary form, also there are hat fan. The fan besides applied to dissipate temperature atmosphere, also able to be applied as decoration of wall.



Material applied to fan is bamboo wulung as its(the framework and batik cloth. Batik cloth applied by Kipas Seni delivered from Delanggu. While its(the bamboo from worker in Bantul. otherwise wish to apply batik cloth, we also able to ask to change its(the cloth material. Ms. Dewi ( 37), owner of Kerajinan Kipas Seni tells that cloth type applied also is adapted for order from buyer.



Of course, besides sold and marketed [by] through galeri-galeri and batik shops in Jogja, Kipas Seni also frequently gets order. Tangung-tanggung order do not come from Jakarta, finite of other state like Malaysia, Italia, Dutch and Singapore. But according to Ms. Dewi, the existing finite of Kipas Seni at most sending goods to Kalimantan.



Most buyer comes by way of order, and most fan applied as souvenir. Products from Kipas Seni also able to be got in Batik Plentong, Supple Batik, and Batik Setaman. Faned Strarting art managed [by] Ms. Dewi since 1999 was, now has around 5 people worker all is woman. They working also is neighbours closest. All production processes done by the this mothers, like screen printing, makes pattern, finite of its(the finishing,



Fan that is on the market having immeasurable its(the measure, starts from smallest of the size 15 cm, esteemed Rp biggest finite 1000,- of the size 40 cm is esteemed [by] Rp 45000,-. " We also have ever made fan of the size 1,5 metre, but that is we made only if there are order only," says Diah, one of worker in Kipas Seni. Besides fan as its(the pledge product, Artistic Fan also produces decorative wax;candle, but wax;candle decorated the only produced [by] if there are order only.

Blazed the way by Perajin Kartodimejo; World Bamboo Furniture

Mebeler bamboo which initially merely was complement of housewares of rural household, have never been peeped at public. But the reality now becomes other, because mebeler bamboo can go up pamour, even becoming not embarrass when perched in prestigious houses. Change of the public appetite of course do not come abrupt, but through covering ground process.



If ditelisik, the process doesn't release broil from Mr. Kartodimejo, a perajin bamboo of countryside Cebongan, Sleman, Yogyakarta trying to produces chair from bamboo material wulung ( black). The scorpion, around year of 1970 s(he still still besimbah sweat nyunggi must ( brings above head) chairs his creation, from countryside by foot towards town Yogyakarta is aparting around 15 kms.



Even consciousness a lot has not enthuses it, Mr. Karto his(its non bored fringing town road(street Yogyakarta to vend its(the merchanidise. Today saleable one, tomorrow do not find buyer, and has just around four, the next five days of payon again, so(after about image of its(the journey. Aphorism basin do not recognized hence non darling, mebeler the scorpion bamboo of course still unheard-of of wide, palagi is darling.



Has just a few the next years in edge of street Suryotomo/Lojikecil, Yogyakarta, there is an agent mebeler strarting bamboo performs its(the merchanidise in cloister. After the time/date of that is public Yogya gradually recognizes it, until finally many buyers, even merely to be attached in house terrace;core, or receive children guest boards with. When has run flogs the next year, then mebeler really bamboo can enliven furniture market.



Kreasi and innovation perajin also grows, from initialy artless then dikutak – tick with engraving. Even not only limited to guest chair desk, but other product for example sketsel, bed, book rack and his(its conspecific, starts emerging in marketing. In few words mebeler bamboo like entering a period of booming, Mr. Karto also have been followed by many perajin its(the neighbour. Since a few years lately, countryside Sendari, Cebongan, Mlati, Sleman turns into ( a kind) sentra [crafting/ diligence] of bamboo entangles tens of perajin.



Local Government of Sub-Province Sleman also intervenes facility for example with segaramisation of business nameplate, and supply of farm in spacious a pice of land owned local kalurahan. Even must rent around Rp 1 juta/tahun, perajin-perajin like Hartono, Muryadi, Sugiarto, Sukidi, Ninik feels is steadier with its(the business. Different with Mr. Karto which berdarah-darah must, now perajin ready to open kios/toko, buyer has come x'self looks for it.



Its(the excitement is again, buyer is not merely from in around Yogyakarta, but also from other towns, even world. Ninik, with nameplate effort for Deling Asri for example, confess has the several exporting to Portugal and Phillipina. Similar export also done by Sugiarto, to Italian, Dutch and Germany, or Muryadi have ever exported British krypton, Swiss, Spanyol, American, Korsel, Turki, Austrian, Singapore, Taiwan and Malaysia.

Wood Statue Love Expression

Love expression drawn from statues is being combines this love. Likely, they also can talk about understanding, be each other receive and gives.

The collection statues wooden as high as around 10 to 150 cm. Various statue expressions painted in style to be in love, bermesraan, smoochs, and scene within reason a couple of lover is being kasmaran. " I wish when people to see my statue not necessarily think, digests, interprets, and asks as statue is. But people direct tickled, laughs, and likes with this statues expression. Because this statue not abstraction," says its(the collector, Dr. Nopirin which also Faculty Of Economics lecturer UGM.

Journey collects having immeasurable its(the collection is started [by] since the year 1970, when Nopirin study S2 in University of Philipine, Philipina. That moment s(he marvels and tickled at a fairish statuette around 20 cm so called Men In The Barrel. The statue is in the form of boy which bersembuyi in a barrel, which if(when the barrel is opened, the boy statue will seen without cloth. Drollery and taste likes that is making Nopirin up to now collects it.

There is also statue which megekspresikan scene bes in love multifariously kinds of style and position. " I am not at all assumes this statues as thing vulgar and contains element of pornography, but esthetics value and art written in presentation of the statues," he/she said.

Now, to get collection of this far unnecessary statue hunted is finite to other side country, because statue actor here have been quite a lot of making it. Usually s(he earns in shop suvenir and [crafting/ diligence] shop in area Pucung in place of actor Sehono or buys in Bali, Lombok island, and Jakarta. Except which porcelain barium, s(he buys in Italian. Its(the collections amounts to approximant to reach 50 the effect of big finite pocket edition. The price also varies, starts Rp 200 thousand so reaching 5 million.

There is also statues is having theme woman. One of them is, woman statue so called Brayut - it is said its(the reeling from ancient Java epoch - what tells a woman who is having chlid many, more than five. Statue is having theme because of you, statue a pregnant woman and tells: because of you. Its(the simple language: I am pregnant because you. Or, statues which only with bodice appearance, privy parts of man and woman. There is also Adam and Eve statue residing in Taman Eden, be plucking fruit of khuldi, what bought it in Jakarta.

For treatment of the statues enough to be cleaned by the way of mop and sprayed with plitur barium water wood whiller and wood stand. collection of Its(the statue is now terpajang approximant in all sittingroom and in family room which is in the form of limasan. " Usually if friends from Bulaksumur came becoming their ger-geran material. I also likes because they can laugh when seeing this my statues," express it likes.

Father haves a daughter this 3 do not only wishs merely collecting, but looks for collection having certain theme. " I wish to collect with love theme, if collection with kinds of themes makes this life not directional. Life with theme makes is directional and has life totality," explains this Sri Sudiastuti husband.

Theresia Andayani; Photograph: Kindness Prast.